NIKO

Niko is a Japanese restaurant, basically. Hiro Sawatari, formerly of Sushi Yasuda, runs the sushi bar, cutting fish below a collection of bobble-head dolls depicting baseball stars. James London and Marina Schulze operate the hot kitchen, bookending Mr. Sawatari’s fish with Tokyo-style fried chicken and steak basted in Suntory whiskey, among other offerings. There is a tight and interesting list of wines put together by Laura Maniec, with some good values to be found amid the broker-bait pinot noirs. Dessert is not offered, beyond a collection of complimentary mochi pills that are relatively unappetizing.